‘Land that feeds us’ focuses on value of local produce
‘The land that feeds us’, a unique event at the Rosemount GAA centre, on Friday October 6 last, took the form of a community feast with an important message.
The project was a parish-wide collaboration between farmer Kieran Guinness, butcher John Gillivan, artist Sophie von Maltzan, chef Claire Dunning and the local people.
Funded by Creative Ireland through the Westmeath County Council Arts Office, ‘The land that feeds us’ aimed to highlight the potential for farms to become environmentally and socially more sustainable.
By raising a deeper awareness of the importance of eating local produce, project lead Sophie von Maltzan wants to support food security, revive social inclusivity, promote environmental sustainability, and boost the potential for more viable local incomes.
“When I leave the farm in Westmeath and arrive in Dublin, it is like two different worlds,” Sophie said.
“With the current environmental crisis, suddenly everyone has an opinion on farming. It is deeply unfair. Farmers are being blamed for everything, yet they have no choice and no voice.”
It all started with an idea. A black polled bullock belonging to farmer Kieran Guinness was selected from the herd by butcher John Gillivan, and subsequently processed at his premises in Moate.
The animal was reared solely on native grasses and herbage that had not been ploughed, sprayed or artificially fertilised for many decades.
Meanwhile, Sophie and chef Claire Dunning worked with the parishioners of Rosemount and surrounding areas to gather and revive historical recipes, including many for cuts of beef that are no longer typically used.
The ‘fifth quarter’ of an animal comprises the blood, hide, hooves, heart, and they do not enter the human food chain.
The beef processing factories do not directly pay the farmer for the fifth quarter, yet there was a time not that long ago when many household recipes incorporated what is now seen as a waste product.
“Food produce is manipulated by consumerism, and our selection of foods is dictated by the supermarkets,” said Sophie.
“City and countryside are becoming more decoupled, and diets and recipes are no longer informed by history, tradition and locality. With processed food, we are forgetting the knowledge. More and more money is made by the distributor, and less is being made by the producer.”
Recipes
The recipes used for the community feast make for a wonderfully nostalgic read on the ‘The land that feeds us’ website.
Ann Rose Geoghan (age 84) submitted a recipe for oxtail soup, which resulted in a beautifully rich creamy broth. Another parish resident known as ‘Granny Hamill’ gave a recipe for brown stew, using stewing beef.
There are also recipes for liver and onions, beef lard, stuffed heart, black pudding, pressed tongue, shin beef, steak and kidney pudding, beef cheek casserole, and many more.
“People are happy sitting around a table,” said chef Claire Dunning.
“Eating together makes us human. Food is a sacred thing, and we have forgotten that.
Up until the ‘80s and ‘90s, people readily ate the fifth quarter. It is full of nutritional essentials, it will feed and sustain you.”
Local involvement and participation extended to the pupils of Rosemount NS, who enjoyed learning about the project, and sampling the beef dishes.
The children also visited the farm to explore the biodiversity and habitats in the area.
The feast drew approximately 200 people to the delicious offerings.
Many of the Ukrainian residents in the area were involved in the food preparation, making the event an inclusive and diverse celebration of rural life.
“A bullock butchered and eaten in Westmeath without having a distributor involved, and coming from a grass and herb fed herd on a natural farm, is the most climate crisis friendly beef that one can eat.” Sophie said.